FREN

Mary Jane Espadrilles: One Silhouette, Endless Possibilities

At Atelier COSTÀ, we develop custom espadrilles for brands and boutiques, handcrafted in Spain.

Three hand-stitched jute-sole Mary Janes in red velvet, camel suede and leopard print, with a sketch, material swatches and a gold buckle.

Our hand-stitched jute-sole Mary Janes show exactly what I love about this work: starting from one design, then imagining everything it can become simply by changing the materials, the colours and the finishes.

Red velvet, camel suede, a leopard print… Three interpretations of the same silhouette, each with its own character.

What is a Mary Jane espadrille?

A Mary Jane is recognisable by the strap across the instep, usually fastened with a buckle.

Its name comes from a character in the American comic strip Buster Brown, which first appeared in 1902. But this strapped shoe shape existed long before that.

Today, it is being reinvented in very different materials and styles.

What does a hand-stitched jute sole change?

On our Mary Janes, the jute sole brings the texture and the spirit of the espadrille to a classic silhouette.

The upper is joined to the sole with hand stitching, a gesture that belongs to the traditional craft of the Spanish espadrille.

I particularly love this meeting of a familiar shape and handcrafted making.

Which materials should you choose for Mary Janes?

This is often where a design takes on its full personality.

Red velvet catches the eye, camel suede keeps things understated, and leopard print adds a bolder touch.

Two hand-stitched jute-sole Mary Janes in ochre and dark green velvet, resting on beige linen beside an olive branch.
Same silhouette, two moods: velvet in ochre and dark green.

And the possibilities go beyond the material. The colour of the edging, the stitching, the contrasts or the finishes can change the look of the design, sometimes with a barely noticeable detail.

Which finishes should you choose for Mary Janes?

The same Mary Jane can look completely different depending on its finishes, and that is often where everything is decided.

Close-up of two dark green velvet Mary Janes: matching edging, visible stitching on the jute sole and crochet detail on the toe.
Thread, toe, grosgrain: every finishing detail can change from one Mary Jane to the next.

For the stitching, you can use threads in different colours, matching or contrasting, or even a gold thread.

There are also those small traditional Spanish crochet details that can be added on the toe. You can also choose to keep the toe simple.

The grosgrain edging around the shoe also comes in many colours, matching or contrasting.

The buckle matters as well: gold or silver, smaller or wider, it can change the whole look.

How do you customise Mary Janes for your brand?

Creating a collection does not necessarily mean starting from scratch.

The same base can come in several materials and colourways, depending on your brand’s identity and what your customers expect.

You start by exploring materials and colour cards, then define the finishes. Next comes a first sample, which lets you see the design and adjust the details before production begins.

These are creative choices, but also decisions that call for a good knowledge of materials and of what the workshops can do.

Frequently asked questions

What makes a Mary Jane different from other flats?

The strap across the instep, usually fastened with a buckle. That strap is what defines a Mary Jane.

Can Mary Janes be made in different materials?

Yes. Depending on the design, different fabrics, leathers and finishes can be used.

Can you create custom Mary Janes for a brand?

Yes. We look with you at customising the materials, colours, finishes and your brand’s label, as part of a collection project.

Have a project in mind?

Tell us about your brand and your project: we will reply with the next steps.