Materials: What Gives a Collection Its Character

Canvas and linen naturally come to mind, but the possibilities go much further. Leather, velvet, printed fabrics, wool, raw silk, organic cotton and recycled textiles can all be used to create very different espadrilles.

At Atelier COSTÀ, we spent more than ten years developing our own collections. We explored a wide range of materials, experimented with colour combinations and different finishes, and sometimes completely changed the look of a design without changing its shape.

That’s one of the things we enjoy most about this work: starting with a material, a colour or an idea and discovering what we can do with it.

How Can Materials Help You Customise Espadrilles?

Take our Mary Jane espadrilles. We have developed this design in many different versions, and it is a good example of how much can be done with a single shape.

In lightweight canvas, it becomes a summer espadrille. In suede leather, it is a classic, elegant flat that works particularly well between seasons.

Velvet offers other possibilities. We can keep the finish simple, with a carefully chosen buckle, or add stitching in a contrasting colour or gold thread.

We can also add delicate traditional Spanish crochet details to the toe, or finish the edges with matching or contrasting grosgrain ribbon. Buckles make a difference too: gold or silver, small and discreet or slightly more noticeable.

Depending on the materials and finishes, the same Mary Jane can be designed for indoor or outdoor wear.

And we are still working from the same basic shape.

Our jute-soled loafers are another good example.

In canvas, they are ideal for warmer days. In plain matte leather, they look more classic. Metallic leather gives them a different feel altogether.

We have also developed two-tone and three-tone leather combinations, using contrasting colours to create quite different versions of the same loafer.

Even the sole changes the result. A single jute sole gives the shoe a slimmer profile, while a double sole adds more presence.

For a brand looking to customise its espadrille collection, developing a completely new shape is not always necessary. Materials, colours and finishes already offer plenty of possibilities.

What Materials Can You Choose for an Espadrille Collection?

Over the years, we have worked with a very wide range of materials.

There are, of course, cotton canvas, linen and washed linen, which are natural choices for summer espadrille collections.

But we have also used many printed fabrics, sometimes printed with natural dyes, as well as velvet, wool and raw silk.

Leather offers just as much variety: smooth, matte, suede, metallic, embossed, textured and printed finishes.

Printed and embossed leathers are particularly interesting when you want to introduce a pattern or texture. They can be used on their own or combined with plain leather in different colours.

Textiles offer plenty of options too. Washed linen does not have the same structure as a heavier canvas. Raw silk has its own distinctive texture. A printed fabric can completely change the character of a classic espadrille.

We enjoy looking through material colour cards, comparing textures and shades, and seeing which combinations might work together.

Sometimes a material we would not have chosen at first becomes much more interesting when paired with another.

That is part of what makes choosing materials such an important stage in creating a collection.

Certified Organic Cotton, Recycled Fabrics and Vegan Leather Alternatives

Today, many brands are looking for organic or recycled fabrics for their espadrille collections.

Through our suppliers, we can offer a wide selection of certified organic cotton fabrics and certified 100% recycled fabrics.

The choice is not limited to a few plain fabrics. There are different textures, colours and print options to explore.

We can also offer vegan alternatives to leather for brands that prefer to work with these materials.

These are different categories, each with its own characteristics. Certified organic cotton, certified recycled fabric and vegan leather alternatives are not the same thing.

What matters is being able to look at the available options and select materials that suit the design and the preferences of each brand.

Choosing a Material That Works for the Shoe

A material may look appealing on a colour card, but the result can be different once the espadrille has been made.

Thickness, flexibility and structure all matter.

Lightweight canvas does not behave like suede leather. Velvet may require particular attention during cutting. A more structured fabric will not necessarily suit every shape.

For our espadrilles, we also need to consider the traditional stitching that joins the upper to the jute sole. Some materials require different preparation or finishing techniques.

Linings are another part of the material selection. There are several options depending on the design, but we will explore the materials used inside our espadrilles in a separate Journal article.

Experience has taught us that even a beautiful material will not necessarily work for every model.

Sometimes choosing a different material is the best way to achieve the result we want.

The Finishing Details That Make a Difference

Customising an espadrille collection is not only about choosing the leather or fabric.

The finishing details matter too.

On our velvet Mary Janes, for example, we can use different coloured stitching threads, gold thread, grosgrain edging or traditional crochet details on the toe.

The buckle also plays its part. A gold or silver buckle, in a smaller or wider shape, can change the overall appearance.

For our loafers, we can combine different leather colours, contrast matte and metallic finishes, or choose between a single and a double jute sole.

When developing a model, we compare material colour cards, threads, grosgrain ribbons and accessories. We try different combinations, put some aside and keep others.

Sometimes a detail that seemed perfect at first simply does not work with the chosen material.

And sometimes the simplest combination gives the best result.

Taking the time to look at these details helps us find what really works for each design.

How to Choose Materials for a Custom Espadrille Collection

When a brand or boutique wants to create its own espadrille collection, the first thing is to think about the materials that fit its identity.

A summer collection might be built around linen, washed linen and cotton canvas, with a carefully chosen colour palette.

Another collection might feature suede Mary Janes for the transitional seasons, velvet designs with different finishes, or loafers combining plain, printed and metallic leathers.

Other brands may prefer certified organic cotton, certified recycled fabrics or vegan leather alternatives.

There is no need to use dozens of different materials to create an interesting collection. A few well-chosen designs in complementary colours and materials can be enough.

It is a matter of finding the right combinations.

And, above all, choosing a material not simply because it looks attractive on a colour card, but because it genuinely suits the espadrille you want to create.

From Our Collections to Yours

For more than ten years, we created our own espadrille collections, from classic designs to Mary Janes, loafers and indoor footwear.

That experience gave us the opportunity to work with many different materials, understand their particular qualities and see how much a colour, fabric or finish can change a design.

Today, at Atelier COSTÀ, we share this experience with fashion brands, boutiques and concept stores looking to develop their own espadrille collections.

Are you searching for a particular linen, a printed leather, velvet, certified organic cotton or certified 100% recycled fabric? Would you like to customise your espadrilles with different colour combinations, buckles or finishing details?

We can help you explore the materials available through our suppliers, compare colour cards and select combinations that work for your collection.

Because that is often where it all begins: with a material we like and the idea of what it could become.